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Alexa Actionable Analytics for the Web. AmazonGlobal Ship Orders Internationally. Amazon Inspire Digital Educational Resources. Amazon Rapids Fun stories for kids on the go. Nor are aquaculture-grown giants likely to be imported from other countries. Thailand has a number of well-established Mekong giant catfish farms, but those fish normally weigh no more than about a hundred pounds when sold.
Some Mekong giant catfish, he added, do grow to nearly pounds in government-stocked reservoirs in Thailand, but he knows of no such operations in Cambodia, Vietnam, or Laos. Giant barbs, on the other hand, are a completely different story, Sukumasavin said. Though the species has been bred in captivity for more than 40 years, those fish are almost always released into the wild—not sold for meat. After Phan Sok Phoen caught two giant barbs, Vietnamese traders tried to persuade him to sell the fish, which would have been illegal. Phoen refused, but he says other Cambodian fishermen have chosen to break the law and work with the Vietnamese.
Cambodia has long been a stronghold for giant fish, partly because of cultural veneration for them. Mekong giant catfish appear in 12th-century carvings on the Bayon temple walls near Angkor Wat, and any fish weighing more than a hundred pounds is widely regarded as having godlike qualities. Many Cambodian fishermen consider it unlucky to catch one. Phan Sok Phoen, for instance, was horrified last year when he found a plus-pound giant barb in his net on two separate occasions.
Phoen immediately called fisheries officials at Kompong Luong village, who helped him release the fish. To mark the occasion, he lit incense and said a few prayers, imploring the fish to bless him with good fortune for returning it to the lake.
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By choosing to abide by his beliefs, Phoen passed up a big payday. Vietnamese traders began showing up in his community around two years ago, he said, looking to buy giant fish from Cambodian fishermen and presumably transport them to Vietnam. Phoen heard that they bought some 10 giant barbs last year alone. While some Cambodians who ensnare giant fish may be scrupulous and superstitious, others are more interested in profit—or are motivated by desperation—and with millions of nets cast in the Mekong each day, the fish run a constant risk of being caught and sold off illegally.
El Sokrey, a fisherman in Chong Koh Chrog Changvar, a Mekong houseboat community near Phnom Penh, epitomizes the circumstances that may drive Cambodian fishermen to break with tradition and law by contacting a Vietnamese trader if they find a giant fish in their net. Sokrey said his catch of smaller river fish has declined steadily since , which has had a devastating effect on his family.
He used to earn more than enough through fishing to support his wife and youngest daughter and to pay for new nets and boat repairs. Now he has no choice but to repair his fraying net by hand, and his family is barely getting by. I cannot go to the land to find another job. Last year he caught a giant barb weighing about pounds, but it was dead. It weighed about pounds and was dead too. Like Hosen and Sokrey, most every fisherman I spoke to in Cambodia had heard of the Vietnamese traders.
Two of them even gave her business cards: The other lists only a name and phone number. When I called that number, a man answered speaking Khmer with what my interpreter said was a strong Vietnamese accent. At Lang Nghe restaurant, in Danang, Vietnam, customers eat dinner under a poster advertising plus-pound giant barbs and giant catfish. The man on the phone was almost certainly working for one of the restaurants in Vietnam.
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Middlemen serve as a bridge between rural poachers and urban sellers. But traders seem to have little trouble getting protected giant fish out of the country. Poverty is a powerful motivator: Once suppliers get their hands on a fish, Bui told me, they pack it in ice to be flown, usually by Vietnam Airlines, to Danang. Because Mekong giant catfish but not giant barbs, puzzlingly are afforded the highest level of protection by the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora CITES , the treaty that regulates the global wildlife trade, trading them across a border requires both an export permit issued by the country of origin and an import permit issued by authorities in the destination country.
Transporting giant fish to another country without such paperwork would be in violation of the treaty, to which all five Mekong River Basin countries are signatories. Yet the CITES trade database—a searchable collection of all international trade in CITES-listed species, which countries are supposed to update annually—lists just six Mekong giant catfish exported from Thailand since , none of which went to Vietnam. Anh may be able to bypass the permit formalities.
No further explanation was given. Nguyen Quoc Manh, owner of Lau Cua Song Truce Vien, a seafood restaurant in Hanoi, said that as long as profit is involved, businesses dealing in illicit wildlife products can usually avoid being shut down.
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In some cases there may be genuine misunderstanding about the law. Manh said he receives the occasional Mekong giant catfish from Cambodia or Laos, which he seemed to genuinely believe is legal. He said they immediately began mentioning it in workshops conducted with customs officers and began discussions with the Directorate of Customs about strengthening enforcement. Biologist Zeb Hogan is taking steps toward this goal. Hogan and others believe this makes reducing demand in Vietnam the most effective starting point for curbing the illegal trade.
Even as some people are emptying the Mekong of its giants, others are trying to restock the river. Every now and then a ripple on the surface hints at the living treasures concealed beneath the murky water: In July government scientists acquired about 10, pint-size fish that had been netted incidentally.
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As the fish migrate up and down the Mekong and stray into its larger tributaries, the researchers hope that fishermen who catch them will call the phone number on the tag to claim a small reward, then return the fish to the river. That would help them monitor the fish over time.
In January , six months into the experiment, the pond fish were surviving at a 25 percent rate compared with an estimated one percent or less in the wild. Also in January, and to great excitement, the researchers identified their first giant catfish—a sleek silver torpedo they named Wonder.
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Hogan chooses to be optimistic. Animals Wildlife Watch. Vietnamese restaurateurs are illegally sourcing rare Mekong River megafish from Cambodian fishermen.
Read Caption. By Rachel Nuwer. Photographs by Linh Pham. Photograph by Linh Pham, National Geographic. Monsters of the Mekong. Mekong River Basin. Myanmar Burma. Nay Pyi Taw. Yangon Rangoon. Tonle Sap. Ho Chi Minh City.